Overview
Y/Project was a Paris fashion house founded in 2010 by designer Yohan Serfaty and business partner Gilles Elalouf. Its operating company, IN-CARNATION, began activity in November 2010 and registered in January 2011. Serfaty established the label through menswear built around leather, elongated proportions and a gender-neutral premise, with Catharsis, Parasomnia and Chairman among the earliest securely documented collections.
After Serfaty’s death in April 2013, Elalouf maintained the company and appointed Glenn Martens as artistic director. Martens’s first collection appeared in January 2014. Over the following decade Y/Project expanded into womenswear, moved to a unified co-ed cadence, built accessories and collaboration programmes, and gained international visibility through the 2017 ANDAM Grand Prize and a 2019 Pitti Uomo guest presentation.
Spring/Summer 2024 was the house’s final conventional runway. A planned Autumn/Winter 2024 show was cancelled, although the collection was published online in March 2024. Elalouf died that June, Martens left in September, and IN-CARNATION entered court-supervised restructuring later that month. Y/Project ceased operations on 9 January 2025 after no acceptable sale was completed; the company remained in judicial liquidation at the July 2026 research cutoff, with no verified revival.
Philosophy
Y/Project treated familiar clothing as a structure open to revision. Under Serfaty, dense leather, high collars, asymmetrical fastenings and long vertical lines gave menswear a severe, architectural character. The work addressed gender through cut and material without converting the early label into a formally unisex division.
Martens retained construction as the central argument but made it mobile. Waistlines were doubled or displaced, sleeves and trouser legs extended, panels superimposed, and wire or adjustable closures allowed a garment to change shape on the body. Historical dress, street clothing, eveningwear and denim could occupy the same look without settling into a single stylistic category.
The image system followed the same collaborative logic. Styling, photography, casting, sound and film repeatedly involved specialists including Ursina Gysi and Arnaud Lajeunie, while street casting and community campaigns gave wearers an active role. Collaborations extended the method into footwear, outerwear and printed body illusion, but remained distinct partnerships rather than separate creative ownership of the house.
Recent events

Disclaimer
Creative timeline
Button TextThe Paris Commercial Court converted IN-CARNATION’s proceeding to judicial liquidation on 9 January 2025, and Y/Project announced that it would stop operations. No acceptable completed buyer was secured; commercial closure remained distinct from the company’s later legal extinction, which had not been recorded by July 2026.
Y/Project publicly announced Glenn Martens’s departure on 6 September 2024. The chronology does not prove that his exit caused the company’s insolvency or that insolvency caused the departure; no interim creative director or authorised studio successor was documented.
Gilles Elalouf died on 9 June 2024 after a long illness. AED Partners was appointed IN-CARNATION’s president and a directoire member later that month; the change did not establish a new creative owner or successor.
Y/Project cancelled its planned 3 March runway after choosing production pre-payment over show expenditure. The house published the 53-look Autumn/Winter 2024 collection online on 12 March as a friends-and-family anniversary portrait.
Y/Project appointed Pascal Conte-Jodra operational chief executive on 22 November 2023 with a remit spanning growth, international distribution, sustainability and work with Glenn Martens. On the same date, IN-CARNATION converted from an SARL to an SAS without creating a new legal person, introduced president, directoire and supervisory-board structures, and appointed Gilles Elalouf company president; Conte-Jodra left during summer 2024.
Autumn/Winter 2021 was Y/Project’s first unified co-ed seasonal collection. The 64-look digital presentation consolidated men’s and women’s development into a longer cycle and also introduced the continuing Melissa footwear collaboration.
Y/Project launched Evergreen during the Spring/Summer 2021 digital period and received €150,000 from the ANDAM Family Fund. The programme revisited established pieces outside ordinary seasonal markdown, while separate men’s and women’s online presentations kept collection output active.
Y/Project showed at Pitti Uomo 95 as the invited guest brand. The 9 January presentation used the Chiostro Grande of Santa Maria Novella and marked an international-platform milestone for the mature label.
Y/Project introduced its first handbag and eyewear programmes with the Spring/Summer 2019 womenswear presentation on 27 September 2018. The bags were developed internally with Isa Kauffman and made in Italy, while eyewear was developed with Linda Farrow; neither programme formed a separate legal division or sub-brand.
ANDAM awarded its 2017 Grand Prize to Glenn Martens for Y/Project. The €250,000 award included mentorship and in-kind support and became a material growth milestone rather than a change in ownership.
Y/Project by Glenn Martens was selected as a finalist for the 2016 LVMH Prize. The recognition increased the label’s institutional visibility but did not constitute investment, acquisition or a collection award.
Y/Project presented Autumn/Winter 2016–17 at Lycée Charlemagne as its first verified show on the official Paris women’s calendar. Women’s product had appeared earlier, so the event records institutional expansion rather than an absolute first garment for women; sources conflict between 1 and 2 March.
Gilles Elalouf appointed Glenn Martens after Yohan Serfaty’s death and a successor search. Martens’s first securely located collection appeared in January 2014; he expanded womenswear, developed Y/Project’s mutable construction system and remained until his departure was announced on 6 September 2024.
Yohan Serfaty died on 17 April 2013 after cancer. Gilles Elalouf maintained IN-CARNATION and began a successor search; no evidence supports a posthumous studio collection or an immediate new company.
Yohan Serfaty ceased as IN-CARNATION’s registered legal manager on 16 September 2012, and Gilles Elalouf assumed the position. Serfaty continued to design and present Y/Project collections until his death, so the filing records a governance transfer rather than a creative departure.
Gilles Elalouf co-founded Y/Project as its business and executive partner. He became legal manager of IN-CARNATION in September 2012, maintained the company after Serfaty’s death and later served as company president until his own death in June 2024.
Yohan Serfaty co-founded Y/Project with Gilles Elalouf and established its original design language through leather, elongated proportion and controlled fastening. He served as IN-CARNATION’s first legal manager until September 2012 while continuing creative authorship until his death in 2013.
Y/Project divisions and related structures
The house developed through category programmes within one label rather than through separate diffusion brands.
Seasonal programmes
- Menswear
- from 2010
- The founding programme joined leather-led construction and elongated proportion to a gender-neutral design premise while remaining publicly organised as menswear.
- Womenswear
- from 2014; runway from 2016
- Women’s product entered in stages. A capsule was announced for Autumn/Winter 2014, followed by the first verified presentation on the official Paris women’s calendar in March 2016.
- Co-ed collections
- from Autumn/Winter 2021
- The pandemic-era development cycle led Y/Project to unify its men’s and women’s seasonal presentations, beginning with a 64-look digital collection in January 2021.
Continuing programmes
- Evergreen
- from 2020
- A permanent selection of established Y/Project designs intended to remain outside the ordinary markdown and seasonal-obsolescence cycle. Contemporary environmental claims came from the house and were not independently audited in the supplied record.
- Handbags and eyewear
- from Spring/Summer 2019
- The first handbag programme was developed with Isa Kauffman and made in Italy; eyewear was developed with Linda Farrow. Neither category formed a separate legal company or sub-brand.
Y/Project collaborations
Y/Project used partnerships to move its construction language into footwear, outerwear, sportswear and graphic ready-to-wear. Runway reveal and retail release often occurred months apart.
Footwear
- UGG
- 2018
- Thigh-high and slouched boots debuted on the Autumn/Winter 2018 menswear runway in January, followed by an August campaign and October retail release.
- Melissa
- 2021–2024
- A continuing multi-drop footwear programme began with the Court Point Mule in Autumn/Winter 2021 and reached a fourth reported release, including the Court Clog, in August 2024.
- Salomon
- 2024
- A reworked Speedcross 3 appeared with the final Autumn/Winter 2024 collection and reached retail in October, after Martens’s departure announcement but before the house closed.
Outerwear and sportswear
- Canada Goose
- 2020
- A six-piece unisex outerwear capsule was shown with Autumn/Winter 2020 menswear and released through a staged retail programme that October.
- FILA
- 2021–2022
- FILA sportswear and archive references were translated into transformable tracksuits and modular garments for Spring/Summer 2022, unveiled online in June 2021 and released in April 2022.
House crossovers
- Jean Paul Gaultier
- 2022–2023
- Two ready-to-wear capsules used body-print illusion and Gaultier imagery within Y/Project collections. These projects were separate from Martens’s one-season Jean Paul Gaultier haute couture commission in January 2022.
- Y/PROJECT by MARC JACOBS / Heaven
- 2025
- Developed over two years and released through Marc Jacobs and Heaven in March 2025, the capsule fulfilled a pre-closure project after Y/Project had stopped operations. It did not constitute a revival or acquisition.
